Waves are opportunities



FOR THOSE, the NEVER DOES NOT TRY CREDIT to stand ON ONE SURFBRETT is it a mystery, as a Surfer dedicates itself to his sport untiringly. We could ask ourselves, which value is hidden beyond the personal pleasure in it. What drives so many Surfer to shake in the exchange for the promise of an ultimative Kicks the conventional conceptions of Erwachsensein simply? And why this produces an ambitious goal so often the kind of sonnengebräunter superficialness, which became the type of ark of the Surfers as it were and which are parodiert in dozens by Hollywoodfilmen? mavericksnodj.jpgNo miracle, which falls it heavily to believe that the Surfen has to do much over the famous-notorious subculture Hawaiis outside with Spiritualität. But you ask once the Surfer themselves, or any different one of the many extreme sportsmen, then them probably somewhat completely different one to hear to get. If humans ride on nine meters high waves or in the desert Marathons run, without rope at over-hanging rock or from helicopters jump, in order to drive with the Snowboard from remote mountain summits down, actually often state they climb after the fact that they would not have experienced anything smaller than the timeless transcendental dimension of the life. And an interesting question raises: Perhaps do kinds of extreme haven satisfy the craze June gravel after Adrenalin-wie many of us think or it a kind modern pot for the holy became bare?One of the hypotheses comes from the French “Körperanthropologen “David Le Breton, which believes that “ethical borders, which do not exist in the present company any longer are replaced in the meantime by physical borders. “Over this topic Le Breton writes: “In a society, in which the numerous points of reference are contradictory and which are values in a crisis, humans try their character strength, their courage and their personal possibilities in a radical, direct match to test. “The result of it is that it is nowadays the range of extreme physical activity, in which it frequently to experiences of the holy one comes.


If this theory applies, thereby something is supported which Big Wave Surfer already say since over fifty years: that they discover the mirror-image-ritual dimension of the life, if they exceed their borders, by defeat-waving the giants of the seas from indescribable extent and an inconceivable surf, which is far distant from at normally inhabited coasts. “Details taken, “explain the thirty-five years old Big Wave Surfer Dave Kalama, “belong the instants, in which one goes beyond the border its that possible one considers, as the most impressive life, because one is provoked thereby to the experience, which one is in the deepest sense… it makes something with one, if one surft on a nine meters high wave. It requires so much concentration and attention that except it nothing is important. It has a strong cleaning effect, because exists regarding one nothing else. “The history of the Big Wave Surfens is full narrations of humans, those for such experiences lives and it in this “ungesurften spheres “search one place, where death has real power and where surviving redefines the human possibilities.

One thinks only of history from Greg Noll. 1957 were Noll twenty years old and carried out innovative for the life of a Surfers at the beaches of Hawaii. In the March of that yearly it stood at a notorious and dangerous coast region, the Waimea Bay at the north coast Oahus, and observed the approaching waves. None had ever risked it to surfen on these wild Gischt. Noll told Stacey Peralta for Riding Giants, a documentary film to the film producer about the Surfen, the following: “Humans really believed that a landing on water herd would rinse to there then develop and all haoles* into the depth. “Noll accompanied of a small group of comrades, who, like he, were Surfer and responsible for the emergence of something, which should develop soon to a new American subculture. It went into the bay and created it, on a wave too ride with was it first, to which had ever done.


But its largest act should achieve Noll many years later in the winter 1969. It even describes as the most important day of its life and this ride on the wave as one, which secured its place for it as Urvater of the Big Wave Surfens. 1969 were the year, in that one of the largest waves 20. Century to the Hawaiian coast cracked. It was the result of three heavy storms, which met one on the other over the Pacific. When hundreds of humans from fear of the powerful waves, which struck to the coast, left their houses, Noll, armed with a Surfbrett, went at the Makaha Beach at the north coast into the water. Two hours he spent only to sit in the water and this errs play to itself to take up: four and five floors high Wasserwände, which develop themselves one after the other one before it and then before him collapsed. Finally it paddelte into an enormous, ten meters high Ungetüm inside, surfte on the inside of the wave to completely downward, before it had to jump from its board, because the Wassermassen seemed to explode around it. It had created it, on the largest wave, on which one humans each had ridden, to this record should two decades long nobody break. Afterwards Noll withdrew itself completely from the Surfen. “This day at the Makaha Beach was, as if one looks, said over an uncanny edge into a large, black abyss “he. “After it gab’s really not more much that I could do. “

Later the Surfer Ken Bradshaw a similar experience with him, born in Texas, should divide nearly thirty years. Ken Bradshaw had been first, on a twelve meters high wave surfte already. In 28 January 1998 it exceeded all previous Big Wave records in an outside reef before Oahu, which is called Outside log Cabins. On the high point of a El of Nino storm, on one day, which is called in America today “Biggest Wednesday “(largest Wednesday), it left from a water motorcycle into a wave hineinziehen*, of which all, which saw it, said, it from the wave valley to the wave comb 24 meters measured. It flew on the internal side of the wave with the almost deadly speed of 72 km per hour down there. “The Gods meant, said it well with it “speechless a friend, who had observed the play from the country. Briefly after this ride, which should become the legend, Bradshaw fell however into a deep existenzielle depression. At the age of 45 years it had finally carried out the dream, which had given a goal to its life. What now should he still do? Only later, than he discovered new borders (in form of a still stronger surf), began it again to surfen.

Three years after this largest Wednesday should Laird Hamilton, who inventors of the Tow in Surfing and the largest today still living Big Wave Surfer, straight at such a new border to perhaps appear. 2001 traveled Hamilton after Tahiti, in order to surfen on a singular wave, which has the form of an eddy tower. This wave carries the name Teahupoo (expressed “Titschopuh “), which means broken heads “on German “. And the nature elements around Teahupoo seem to refer actually nearly everywhere to death. Directly under the surface of the sea razor-sharp, shallow reefs from the beach, which drop then in dramatic way up to a depth of 90 meters, extend. If an approaching heave meets this reef wall of about 500 meters far away from the country, it produces a so powerful, tubular wave that one already called it a “monströse mood of hydrodynamics “. The former professional Surfer matt Warshaw notices in addition: “One can surfen in Teahupoo on waves, which are somewhat smaller than a meter, and with scarcely two meters they have still a reasonable form and a reasonable behavior. Starting from approximately 2.50 meters however Teahupoo becomes exponentially more strongly, more thickly, more approximately and more maliciously: With each ride one must in-arrive vertically into the wave; each wave transforms into a cave with thick walls, whose force, if it breaks down, is large enough, in order to send shock waves by the standing water of a close channel. “Only four months, before Hamilton at the Teahupoo wave arrived, the native Profisurfer Briece Taerea had been hurled into an underwater reef, while it surfte on a 4.50 meters high wave. It fallow the necks and the backs in three places, fell itself in coma and died after two days.

Within seconds the wave, into which Hamilton let itself be pulled in, accepted kolossale extents. A photographer, the witness of the scene was, could monströs thickens 5.50 meters high Wasserwand only as “liquid napalm “to describe. Hamilton had to lift the right hand during his ride against the internal surface of the wave to only avoid in order that it was sucked upward through the hydraulic forces. Then it in the hollow, rotary wave and the water tube disappeared began themselves to close and discharged like an explosion spraying Gischt. Later it dipped seconds suddenly again reviving. Photos of this day show Hamilton, how it sits thereafter in a boat and cries about the enormousness of this experience. Later he would say: “I felt honoured, because I had been recompenced with somewhat so great one. “

Drew coming pion wrote in its book Waves: Form and Beauty on the Ocean (waves: Form and beauty on the ocean), is no miracle that the most fascinating challenge of the Surfens was always the Big Wave Surfen.


“And in the society of other Surfer a kind God-similar respect was against brought to the men, who were able to ride on these large waves. “Although the elegance of the masters lets work the Surfen nearly easy, is it nevertheless amazingly with difficulty. Simply only up to the place beyond the Surfzone to paddles, where the Surfer wait for the approaching waves, is a fatiguing work, which teaches one fast modesty. So that one can really swing on a wave, the board must to move with the same speed as the coming in heave and it have Spontaneität, speed, equilibrium and staying power be at the same time present. And applies already to a wave, which is only 1.20 meters high. Try to introduce itself for one instant like it are to be a 4.50 meters high wave in the way. It essentially concerns an energy, which is into something, which is meters higher perhaps 3 than one and with a speed of 32 kilometers per hour by the water moves. Waves starting from this height are considered generally as gross-und on such a wave to surfen require such an extent at ability and experience that one can hardly understand it.

Actually large waves occur rather rarely. 80 per cent of all sea waves are smaller than 3.50 meters and 45 per cent are smaller than 1.20 meters. The largest waves, which, which are high over 10 meters, need everywhere 1 to 1.5 kilometers open ocean, in order to develop for their full size. Until such an anomaly meets a reef abort or a coastal slope, them became by wind energy a fed, powerful rolling measures, which with a speed of 30 to 40 knots (55 – 75 km) per hour by the water moved and forces of approximately 3 tons produces themselves (that is a pressure of scarcely 3 kg per square centimeter), before she finally estimates herself and breaks down. The author Daniel Duane tried to illuminate, why the experience of a wave ride is so singular, and writes in Caught Inside: A Surfer’s Year on the California Coast (on the inside imprisoned: The year of a Surfers at the California coast): “A Kletterer penetrates never completely into the mountain, the Wanderer remains imprisoned in a visual trap, but the Surfer penetrates physically into the heart of the sea energy ein-und thereby acts it in no way around Sentimentalität, he is located oneself wet in the element, of which the sea consists substantially, driven in this kinetic eddy. Even if one moves on a river, one does on a medium, which is moved even by the force of gravity, just like with a sailing boat or on Skiern. Until someone finds out, how one can ride on sound or light, the Surfen will remain the only possibility of riding on an energy wave. “


For those, which in the center of this kinetic eddy of a large wave go, the risk is unbelievable. If Surfer are gotten by a falling edge of wave, they can be pressed so deeply and so fast under water that with the pressure pressure the drum skins and the alveoli tear. Torn off member masses or fractures, which are caused by contact with the bottom of the sea or by racing Kraft of the water, are so generally common that Laird Hamilton stopped after thousand passes counting these. Breaks of the central foot bones disfigure its both feet, but it stated, they are now perhaps “stronger than before “. A further pioneer of the Big Wave Surfens, Derrik Doerner, which pulled also Hamilton with the jet ski into the notorious wave with Teahupoo, was met under water once by a Surfbrett. Briefly before it lost consciousness, it felt its cheek. “I could put the hand in about 5 centimeters deeply “, say he. “The next, which I know, was that I woke up in a helicopter. My Kiefer and a cheek bone were broken. It needed altogether 123 passes. “

The experience, which the Big Wave Surfer Titus Kinimaka 1989 originating from Hawaii made one day before a famous Surf competition in the Waimea Bay, is still more terrible. During sunrise it paddelte outside into the heave high over 5 meters and spent several hours to surfen. When it rode however on its last wave, the edge of wave over it broke down and its right leg was met by the Surfbrett as by a hatchet. “I submerged and again was whirled “, say he, “and as I finally highly came, met me somewhat at the cheek, beside the right ear. I was taken somehow and asked myself ‚which away am that only? “and I reached for it and looked at it and noticed there I that it concerned my sole. “Kinimakas thigh had completely broken through, but its first question, when it heard the bad message, was whether it could participate on the following day nevertheless in the competition. “What” I only imagined there? “, he sinniert during an interview one year later. “I was possessed. “And actually, after steel seaweeds by its right hip one had introduced and it had concerned itself four months long lying in bed with its recovery, first, which did Kinimaka thereafter, on 3 meter was to be surfen high waves in the Hanalei Bay.

How are the Big Wave Surfer only motivated to die a so large risk? Regarding its ride with Makaha in the year 1969 Greg Noll writes: “Say some my friends, it was a death desire wave. At that time I did not believe that, but in the review I recognize that perhaps it was at the border in addition. “Actual seems to be it exactly this border between lives and death, which find the Surfer so fascinating. Be in the words of the mountain climber Lionel Terray perhaps so, because “we can keep the life whole only then in our arms, after we went for a long time on the narrow path at the border of death. “Dave Kalama says that the Surfen on large waves “can belong both to the most fear-exciting and to the best experiences of the life, everything within seconds. And fortunately or also unfortunately-heard this feeling to the things in the life, those at most addicted make so as air or water. In order to remain with understanding, one must ride on waves and have some of it to be large… the more near one the complete destruction comes, all the more real becomes everything. “

Derrik Doerner reports on its experience in the water: “For me it is Meditation. If I come back ashore, I knock against myself the toes and stolpere. There outside however it is simply… perfect. All elements do not accumulate and it give a fear. “Explains and Cunningham, which surft lying on the board, to the famous Mark: “It does not only concern the Surfen on the waves to dip it is a matter to swim by it through among them through the eyes under water to open and observe, how this thing hits directly before one. And one cuts exactly there like a measurer through, between the reason and the place, where these game water fingers try to reach for one. Simply this whole dance there outside. One is like a piece of the sea. I mean, of which the human body consists? From water. The physical condition of the body fluids and that of the sea are very similar. And now both were. “Ken Bradshaw remembered its own mythische 24-Meter-Welle and told it an interviewer: “I believe, it am a craze. I do not have a conception of it, but it must be like that, as if one is on drugs. Because if you do not make it, it torments you and eats you up. If it thinks then happened… I, it is, as if one actually looks on the life. One instant long possesses you everything, it belongs to you. You reached the epitome its, to which you are capable. How can many humans in the world say? “

Translated from German to English by translate-google.



Surfing on waves…

Before surfing we must know how to make a surfing board. Then staying on balance…After that we can open to the sea and wait waves to make surfing…

Life brings us waves, if we know how to surf and if we love surfing, we can use the waves to be on the sea and make a good show about chance and succesful…





And there is a tunels in every waves, sometimes big, sometimes narrow…We have to learn to pass them not to sink…It is connected with daring, trying , being ready and making unforgettable show to win.

Not only lucky, being ready to catch the waves and a big wave!     Yeşim Kale





1 Response to “Waves are opportunities”

  1. 1 Judie Sista
    February 21, 2013 at 2:11 pm

    In the early 1900’s the Hawaiians organized the Hui Nalu (surf club) and competed in neighborly surf competitions with the Outrigger Canoe Club. This drew a great deal of attention to the Waikiki surf shore, bringing a revitalized interest in the sport, which had fallen out of favor in the late 1800s. Duke Kahanamoku, an Olympic star in swimming, popularized the sport further by traveling internationally and showing off his surfing style to thrilled audiences around the world. He was favored by Hollywood elite; having acted in bit parts in films and was always recruiting new surfers wherever he went. He is credited with surfing the longest wave of all time in 1917, in the popular surfing area now called Outside Castles in Waikiki. His 1000 meters plus wave record has yet to be overtaken..

    My own, personal internet site

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